This could also be titled from two cars to three, as I used two N scale
Readers Digest premium giveaway cars to make three HON30 cars.
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This is a picture of the N scale car and the finished HON30 gondola.
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I first cut the sides from the N scale car, which is the only thing I used from the original car. I built the underframe from brass so the car would have enough weight, and the ends were built from styrene shapes.
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I scraped off the N scale details, leaving the
rivets, and added grab irons,
stirrups along with
under body brake detail. I used N scale Arch Bar trucks as they are reasonable for HON30. Since I finished these cars, I have obtained some
Grandt Line
Gilpin Tram HON30 trucks and will be using them on future projects. This car ended up weighing in at 1.3 oz, so maybe I should find some brass trucks.
NEXT: the TANK CAR
Starting with this N scale car, I took it apart and built....
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J&N #2
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These are the parts I used to build the basic car. After drilling out the
riveted on trucks, the car comes apart easily with a single screw. The frame of the N scale car was too small for HON30 and way to light. I needed to add weight and size to frame and tried out several ideas including brass, styrene and wood.
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The tank had slots in it, and I trimmed wood to fit in those slots to be chocks to hold the tank on the flat car.
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I
trimmed, filed and sanded all the molded on details except the
rivets.
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I carved off the original dome and added a piece of 3/8" tube for the
man-way. I also turned some steel bar stock I had laying around to fit in the tank for added weight. Even with all this added weight, finished, it only weighted in at 1.4 oz.
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I
finished off the top of the man way with..., you guess what I used.
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To add maximum weight,
epoxied brass bars in slots in the underframe. I decided to epoxy styrene all around the underframe to give me a 7' width and a reasonable looking length.
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Here is the bottom of the underframe with the styrene added and the cast on moulding marks removed.
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I filed the top side flat so the wood deck would fit tight.
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I glued scribed wood to the underframe and
trimmed to fit.
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I painted the car, added a brake wheel, couplers and decals.
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Then a little weathering and
dullcoat for a finished look.
#3, a FLAT CAR
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I used the underframe left over from the gondola and some other parts to make
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this.
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The frame would be too light unless weight was added. I soldered brass bar stock to the sides and ends to give me the needed weight, width and length.
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It took a while, even with a 200 watt soldering gun.
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I filed the top flat and glued boards to make the deck.
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I stained the deck using the Pat
Harriman method; I used
Prismacolor markers.
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I have gotta quit spending some much item on detail you can only see when the car is upside down! I used
Grandt Line under body brake detail and stake pockets.
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I did not figure the stake pockets into the width, so the car ended up about 6" wider than I would have liked, but I do like the way it turned out. This car weighs in at 1.5 oz. Considering it is about 4" long, that's not bad for a flat car.
I have
dozens of projects that are waiting on good weather so I can paint. I have primed several projects, but I will have to wait until the weather warms up to do the finish painting.
Pretty neat. I model the 3" Montana Southern as it might have become had the rails not been pulled up circa 1940. Some original equipment, some that *might have been*, so your efforts are inspirational for me. Oh, and I model using N gauge track [9mm] but on a scale of 3mm=1", so my setup is NOT HOn30. I have no idea what it might be called, but I've got pretty much the same truck challenges that HOn30 modeers do.
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